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Subject: Enging Tuner || New Question
Sender's Name: steve hill
Question: 2.0 DOHC engine. I have removed this engine from a 1992 sierra and fitted it into VINDICATOR SPRINT KIT CAR. It has had the air box removed and a k&n cone air filter fitted. the filter has been fitted inbetween the enging and rad. The problem i am experiencing is with regards to tick over and running it ticks over constant for ages and then sounds like it is grabbing for air at short/longer periods of time, tick over goes up and down. when i push it it gets worse, we went out last night and took it realy steady it was ok until i poked my foot down and it just jerks and backfires. i was wondering if the air cone is in the wrong place where it is and should be put infront of the rad, i was told it should take in cold air?
Answer: I wouldn't blame the air filter position for all that. It sounds like you have a management problem somewhere. They used to be prone to throttle pot and map sensor faults.
 
Subject: Enging Tuner || New Question
Sender's Name: Pete
Question: hi alan, standard mg metro turbo engine. have a boost gauge plumbed in and also a bleed valve and dump valve.when i first connected it all the dump valve did not work and when i went on boost i had a very lound hissing sound and a loss of power. since then after reading around, i have found that there is a poppet valve inside the plenum. after being told by several people to remove this valve and blank it off. i have now done this and now i no longer have any hiss or loss of power but do have a very high pitched whine when i come on boost and still no \"dump\" from the dump valve. this whine doesnt sound right at all so i only did it twice during my test runs. any idea what it is or how it can be solved.many thanks
Answer: Possible damage to the turbo itself. A broken blade can make a lot of noise. It's hard to tell without hearing the noise of course. Are you sure you plumbed the DV in correctly? If you can't see anything on the outside, you may have to pull it to bits.
 
Subject: Enging Tuner || New Question
Sender's Name: Les
Question: Hi there, I have a 94 clio 1.8 8v rsi two problems, the first is when the car gets hot it starts to miss and then cuts out, and wont start up again until it cools down, then its fine, if you were say on the motorway, and it started missing and you got the revs up, and keept your foot down it would be fine until you took your foot off again.only mods kn filter and about 3 inch stainless from cat back . my other problem is i had a clutch fitted. when it was fitted i was told the ajuster was not working cable might be streched, so to get a reasonable clutch he put a couple of washers on the cable, after a few weeks i had trouble to get it in gear it just got worse so i had a look at cable and self ajuster, and found they were both fine in fact my peddle is right up ive been back to the fitter who agrees with me that their must be a problem in side, the other thing is when its cold you can get all gears when its hot none. it bites 5mm from the floor yet the peddle is right. up. hope you can help many thanks les. (do i sell car or move to north pole lol)
Answer: Suggest a possible ignition amplifier problem, although it's best checked out on a dyno, at least you can then run it and see what happens. The clutch itself sounds faulty, in that it won't disengage properly, even though you have plenty of travel. If you paid someone to fix it, it's their problem!
 
Subject: Enging Tuner || New Question
Sender's Name: Pete
Question: Hi, I have a zafira with a non working diesel pump and was due to replace it with a working second hand unit but I have been told its not a simple as replacing one with the other, evidently the pump and the ECU must be coded together. Can you do this work??? How much would it cost.
Answer: Hi Pete - Sorry, love to help, but we don't get involved with diesel engine management systems. That sounds like a main agent job.
 
Subject: Enging Tuner || New Question
Sender's Name: Mr Jon Taylor
Question: Hi Alan, I\'d like the block balanced and assembled by yourselfs keeping the under piston oil squirters. Also could you give me a seperate quote for a 14mm head stud conversion. Cheers Jon
Answer: Hi Jon - we normally charge 2050 inc vat for the short block built from the original unit. Allowing for your own crank, and the slightly more expensive Crower rods, it will come out at 1800 inc vat. This would include the Cosworth bearings, Wiseco pistons, full balancing and building. We charge 143.75 inc vat for the rear thrust machining for the closed deck block. The 14mm stud conversion costs 325 inc vat for the studs and dowels, with a further 172.50 for the machining of the block and heads. An alternative is the Cosworth super high tensile kit at 300 inc vat.
 
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