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Subject: Enging Tuner || New Question
Sender's Name: Buchanan Blake
Question: Hello!! Need some advice - asked everyone with no luck... I have a Rev1 MR2 Turbo in which I am having weird problems with boost (started a few weeks ago). When I floor it, the needle jumps to just under 1.0bar (more lag than normal) and immediatly starts to drop off to about 0.5bar within next to nothing. Keep the foot down and when I get up to about 4500K revs the boost goes completely - the needle goes into negative!!! - really strange. Car has FCD as well as DAWES device fitted (bought another one which is brand new). The VSV has been closed off. As previously mentioned, car was perfect, running 1.2bar for ages, loads of power and held boost all the way to 6000k revs... Have bought a stage2 hybrid turbo and larger intercooler couple of weeks ago which will be fitted soon. Have also checked out everything on car for boost leaks etc but can see nothing (apart from checking intercooler which may be duff). A performance garage tell me it may be a weak actuator, but I am not sure esp as the boost will be held back by the brand new dawes device I got... Any ideas - much appreciated!!!
Answer: I'll be honest, I can't think of anything much that will cause that sort of fault, apart from something obvious like a blocked cat, or bad air leak, and even then, it doesn't quite match. Are you certain that it's actually losing power in that way? or is it just the boost gauge? The power loss should be dramatic if it's losing boost totally.
 
Subject: Enging Tuner || New Question
Sender's Name: Sarah Coxon
Question: Run on LPG, starts of course on petrol. When I start the engine from cold it starts ok but when I pull out of the parking space and take my foot off to change gear, the car stalls. It starts again after 6-8 turns of the engine and a couple of pumps of the pedal and continues ok UNTIL the car switches from petrol to LPG (I see the flashing light stop which means its now on LPG) and then the car lurches momentarily (i would say exactly at the changeover time) but continues driving fine afterwards. The speed at which the car moves from petrol to gas is controlled by the engine temperature I think. The engine I think is running warmer than normal, although the problem with the temp gauge fluctuating seems to be a problem others have had with the megane. I have had the sensor replaced although which one if there is more than one, I dont know. The engine was replaced in dec (by another 2ndhand) bec of a head gasket blow, and this new engine isnt much kop I have to say. It is travelling almost 200kms a day for about a month now with no other complaints than these small ones but I want to sell the car and I worry these are small complaints leading to a big bang that will backfire sooner rather than later. I think I am also losing a little bit of coolant, the bottle under the bonnet has dropped about a quarter in the last month and i seem steam from the radiator some mornings. I dont hear the fan kick in when the temp rises a bit in traffic but is that just bec its very quiet? I understand that LPG cars do run hotter than petrol but to me if I cant get this temp thing under control its just going to be the head gasket all over again and I cant afford another 2000quid. Im assured the hoses are all good now, i dont see any leakage on the ground, although I had a total coolant loss a few weeks ago as the garage hadnt tightened up one of the hoses the last time it was in. Ive just got it back bec there was oil in one of the valves and running on 3 cylinders bec there was a nut missing from the rocker cover leaking oil. This garage is a joke but its all warrantied so I cant stop going back just yet. Could the starting problem also be related to a temperature sensor problem? Any help would be very much appreciated.
Answer: Blimey... I have to say, I haven't seen a gas conversion yet which worked properly, and I've now banned them from our workshop on the basis that the vast majority are badly designed and fitted. If you're getting away with it, I'd say you are one of the lucky ones, as I've heard far worse stories than yours! Trade it in quick...
 
Subject: Enging Tuner || New Question
Sender's Name: COLIN
Question: HI, IVE GOT A FORD MONDEO 1.8 LX MANUAL 51 PLATE. WHEN DRIVING ALONG BETWEEN 10-30 FOOT JUST ON GAS, THE VEHICLE HESITATES AND JERKS SLIGHTLY, LIKE ITS HOLDING BACK, IVE HAD PLUGS CHANGED, AND ALSO THERE WAS NO CODES TO BE FOUND. AND ITS DRIVING ME MAD ONLY HAD CAR FOR 3 MONTHS. MANY THANKS COLIN
Answer: Hi Colin ... My guess is you'd need a Ford dealer to sort that one out. They have a number of faults that can cause idle and slow running problems, and it's too easy to lead you astray.
 
Subject: Enging Tuner || New Question
Sender's Name: Peter Strong
Question: Hi Alan, Frustrating problem with lovely January 1997 P reg Ghia Auto 2.0. When warmed up the engine and driving at 60 mph revs up from time to time - either several short blips between 2500 -3000 revs or sticking at 5000 revs for several seconds. any ideas?
Answer: Nothing specific apart from checking out the management system. Start with a code read and go from there. As I just said somewhere else, these Mondeos have so many slow running problems, I'm wary of suggesting anything!
 
Subject: Enging Tuner || New Question
Sender's Name: wayne van huizen
Question: i have a pulsar with a turbo problem.i think that the waste gate is stuck open.is there a manual that i can get so i can have a go myself or had i better leave it to a specialist
Answer: It's a specialist job really, unless you have a full understanding of what's going on in there. The wastegate actuator contains a spring and a diaphragm. The spring pulls on the rod and keeps the wastegate shut, and the diaphragm exerts a push on the spring to open it for boost control, using pressure from the intake manifold. If it is stuck, it must be the wastegate arm that has siezed in the housing.
 
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